The Cinque Terre: Part III
The Hike (7.5 hours, 14 miles)
Scaling the stone-slab staircase along the backside of the fortress in Porto Venere felt almost like trespassing. Through the cracks and along the side grew wild and untamed weeds. It appeared as though the steps hadn't been walked in years - maybe decades. The depth of each step required that my legs formed more of a march rather than a casual upward stride. Nonetheless, the beginning of our journey proved to be only a slight preview of the peaks and valleys to come. Upon reaching the top of the fortress, I was overcome by the sheer beauty of the panoramic vistas and a bird's eye view of the formidable church and undulating sea.
We walked our way along a dirt path, passing all sorts of bushes and trees, and entering into a thick forest before we encountered an abandoned house. To this day, I regret not going inside. It was a two-story, quintessential Italian home and the broken windows revealed the remants of the homeowners...or squatters. I still dream of turning it into a bed and breakfast and welcoming travelers from near and afar.
Progress on the trail proved to be filled with suprises. Along the path grew wild rosemary plants and fig trees and countless other herbs that filled the air with a rich, savory bouquet. My lungs filled with a fresh inhale of mother nature and exhaled gratitude with the beauty surrounding us. The wind carried the ocean breeze and with it the sea mist & salt, mixing the smell of earth with the aromatic scents of the waters. The path was a winding web of dirt and rocks and makeshift stairs from stone. There were precarious wooden fences protecting passersby from steep drops and stone pathways receding into grass-worn tracks.
Vineyards blossomed along plunging cliffs overlooking the tranquil and aqua-marine colored waters. The narrow earthen hiking paths squeezed gently between the weathered posts and thick vegetation covering the sheer drop to the water's edge some hundreds of feet below. To the right, the livelihood of local farmers and winemakers. To the left, the open sea. The trails of rocks and pebbles snaked around the vineyards, creating a delightful and exciting maze. Each vineyard cultivated in harmony with its surroundings and guarded by worn wooden fences that leaned and bent to the will of the subtle yet powerful wind. Pops of green and yellow emerged in their infancy to become plump grapes for winemaking. Sheets of white organza tethered to the posts covered the emerging and delicate but strong vines. The netting floated and danced with undulations in conformity with the air. The colorful hues of nature created an intricate mosaic that was as alluring as the scents all around us.
We made it to Riomaggiore with plenty of time to casually roam the village. It felt like an authentic seaside escape with vendors shouting in Italian, vino available every few steps, food flowing into the cobblestoned streets, and fresh fruit awaiting a buyer. Women strolled with sophistication adorned with fashionably tethered scarfs, oversized sunglasses, red and white striped boatshirts, and unsensible footwear. The men, on the other hand, sauntered with their leather satchels carelessly slung across their bodies, worn boat shoes, khaki shorts, and aviator glasses. The main plaza was the place to see and be seen.
As our 14 mile journey came to an end, we decided to explore the other villages of the Cinque Terre the following day. Making our way to the shoreline, we jumped on a water taxi (more like a ferry) and found ourselves back in Porto Venere before the sunset. We relaxed on the terrace overlooking the sea with a bowl of pesto pasta, freshly baked bread, and a generous glass of wine.
