The Charm of Istanbul (Part II)

Istanbul is a generously sized megacity, divided between the European and Asian sides and separated by the Sea of Marmara. The two sides of Istanbul are distinct. The European half is steeped in history & culture, has an abundance of tourists, and is a hustler's & smoker's paradise (yes, both are quite overwhelming and, at times, annoying). On the other hand, the Asia side is vibrant, calm, and feels like a community. As we begin to grow weary with the endless antics in old Istanbul, we find solace on the Asian side, specially in Kadıköy.

The metro is easy to navigate and probably the most desirable method for reaching Kadıköy. There are regularly scheduled ferries that depart from the Bosporus River and arrive at the port in Kadıköy, but it feels very touristy. And, we're ready to separate ourselves from that scene.

As we arrive at the metro, we purchase a pass from the kiosk and head towards the train. The journey to Kadıköy requires a transfer but it's very straightforward. (There are maps and clear signs everywhere.) The metro is, by far, one of the most efficient and accessible in all of Eurasia. Once we arrive in Kadıköy, we are immediately struck by the friendliness of the locals and pulse of activity in the streets. It is quite different than the European side of Istanbul. No hustling. No scams. No solicitations. Just walking in the beauty of the city. And, there are abundant cafes and shops, including an entire street dedicated to antiques. Yes, please!

Kadıköy is big but feels like a genuine neighborhood. And we got the full experience during one of our visits when a soccer or football game erupted into a public spectacle, complete with full-grown adult males (no women spotted) dressed in the jersey of their favorite player and drunkenly storming the streets in song and celebration. It was quite a delightful event.

It's a walkable part of Istanbul and, thankfully, not crowded by smokers. (I swear that I've second-hand smoked at least a half-pack of cigarettes every day we've been out in Old Istanbul. Yuck! And for those who want to know: Istanbul smoking is far worse than any city in Europe. Now that's saying something.) The shops were diverse and affordable: Music shops with vinyl records and funky decor. Ceramics studios with available pieces stacked in crates outside and priced at bargain-base rates. Clothing stores ranging from modest to risqué. Shoe kiosks with brand-name knock-offs, modern styles, and dowdy footwear. Mini-garden centers with mature plants and flowers but also seeds and gardening supplies. Food markets with fresh fruits and vegetables displayed outside and fresh bakery items in adjacent storefronts. A proper gym, albeit very expensive and slightly pretentious. (Yes, we toured it with cloth coverings on our sneakers while members wore street shoes freely. 🤔) We even stumbled upon a substantially sized pottery studio! Needless to say, it offers a little something for everyone and feels more accessible than the old city due to its less crowded, large, in-tact sidewalks and manageable street crossings.

The location on the sea gives a different vibe than the tourist and fishing traffic along the Bosporus Strait. It's tranquil and meditative. The surroundings quiet yet alive. Cats make their home in the seaside parks and birds enjoy playful flights as they float with the gentle winds. On our second trip here, the sea was rough and waves crashed aggressively against rocks, flooding pedestrian pathways and strong breezes carried sea mist ashore. It was spectacular!

We both agree that Kadıdöy would be our choice of location should we decide that Turkïye is a place we'd like to call home. But the decision will only be made after we've had ample time to explore the rest of the world. 🗺️