Life in Taipei, Taiwan
As we continue to travel, we find normalcy quickly. But here in Taipei, it feels different. I start to feel guilty. My mind is over-stimulated by the vibrancy of the city. I hadn't planned on liking Taipei. In fact, the location wasn't my choice; it wasn't even on my radar. D had done all the research and was convinced that we should travel here "since we're in the region." It couldn't have been a better decision. The only problem: I instantly feel like I'm on vacation and have to force myself to create time for work and accommodate late-night calls as we enter into a 12-hour time difference.
The Pottery
Even with a failed workshop in Kuala Lumpur, I've become obsessed with ceramics. A proper obsession. I watch YouTube videos. I read articles. I watch pottery reels on Instagram for, well, hours. There's something about holding the earth in my hands and shaping it into a beautiful vessel or piece of art that I can't explain. It's a feeling, an expression. Creativity has always been my "go to" thing for resetting myself. On the road, I find it brings me peace and is quite meditative. I had intermittently done pottery over 20 years ago, but I've now "re-discovered" it and have fallen head over heels. Fortunately, I find the most amazing studio in Taipei. It becomes a very regular part of my brief life in the city. To read more about my experience, visit the blog post here.
The Gym, Fitness Centers, and the Stadium
Health and physical wellness is a visible priority in Taiwanese culture. At any given moment, there is someone doing something to promote their health. It's not uncommon to see older persons doing stretches and aggressively walking down the sidewalks. People congregate in public spaces and stretch, do light workouts, jog. It's quite remarkable. We even see a walker-dependent elderly man (at least 90 years old) circling the stadium with his carer. He's there every day. Rain or shine. But we'll get the stadium in a bit.
Gyms are plentiful. The catch: all require a Taiwanese phone number to enroll. It becomes quite obvious that without one, there will be many limitations to our participation in mainstream amenities. Despite this fact, we do not get a phone number. We do, however, visit over 10 gyms to get a sense of how they function. Overall, the equipment is quite good. We look for gyms that have CrossFit machines like the air-runner, air-bike, rower, skier, and sled pulling. We found one such gym in the basement of a building. Since we cannot join without a phone number, we opt for a daily rate and hand over our driver's licenses for, well, I'm not quite sure. Anyways, we pay about $10USD/each and get to work. After the workout, we play around on the other machines. It's a small but well-equipped gym, not crowded, and an impeccably clean and ventilated locker room.
Many of the gyms accept Easy Cards and allow gym-goers to pay by the minute. And the cost per minute is rock-bottom cheap! If only we had a Taiwanese phone number. (We make a note that, if we return, a phone number is a priority.)
While there are endless gyms, there are also great alternatives. Government gyms are located throughout the city and within each neighborhood. Anyone can join and it's the cheapest option in the city. The gyms are well-equipped but the supposed drawback is how well attended the gyms are, especially during peak hours. We, in fact, do not go to one of these gyms but see them in every neighborhood as we walk through the city. They all appear well kept, clean, and orderly. But we don't expect less in Taipei.
Instead of the gym or fitness centers, we "discover" the Taipei Stadium. The track is free, and there is a generous amount of open space with grass and soft turf. It's perfect for our workouts. And it's free. We quickly establish a routine and attend our self-made stadium gym at least three times a week. It allows us to get creative with our workouts. Since it very public, we get a lot of stares. Most people are walking or running the track; we're the outliers doing HIIT workouts in CrossFit fashion. We use our jump ropes, body weight, and the track as our main tools, and it's perfect.
The stadium is not without its entertainment. And on more than one occasion, we were the entertainment. During one workout, in particular, an older gentleman - at least in his 80s - walks up to me and stands in front of me as I complete 10 burpees. He just stares. No attempt to speak, just a silent appreciation of my efforts...I think. I smile at him to make him feel more at ease. Nothing. As sweat pours down my face, I finish the last burpee of the round and set off to do a revolution around the track as D finishes his run and sets up for lunges. The man drifts away, apparently unmoved by D's athleticism. (This is not sarcasm. D is naturally athletic and does every move with equal intensity and ease.) After we complete 10 rounds of our workout, D turns to me and gives me a look. I smile. He says in a breathy whisper, "What was that?" I shrug my shoulders. It was only one of many such incidents we had come to experience. But we learn that health is a genuine curiosity amongst the Taiwanese and quickly welcome the stares and occasional smiles we receive.
The Food and Markets
Everything is in Mandarin Chinese, and we are a little lost in translation. We search for a viable place to get food the first night. As we walk through the closest street market, we decide that the first night is not the time to be adventurous: just get fed. We stumble across a restaurant that has a large menu with accompanying photos. I order very traditional foods - yummy. D sticks with some American style foods. I wake up the next morning with a terrible stomachache that sticks around for the next few days. I assume I ate mushrooms and the google translate did not, in fact, translate everything in the description. It is the only such incident. As we navigate our way through the city, we find restaurants where we can easily order in English and understand all of the ingredients. (Mushrooms and pork are a significant part of the Taiwanese diet, and both are no-nos for us.) In general, we find that there are some very reasonable options. We also note that Taipei is a genuine world city - with the prices to prove it. Needless to say, Taipei is not the place to find a bargain unless solely feasting on street foods is your jam.
The Grocery Store
We're in Taipei for a month, which means that most of our eating takes place "at home." The apartment is a strange setup. There is a stove top, microwave, and fridge. So we have to accommodate our diet to the available tools. Luckily, the grocery store is mere steps away. The RT Mart is a mega-market and super easy to navigate. The market is more like a big mall. It has everything - legit massage chairs (for purchase), kitchen accessories and appliances, clothing, food, beverages, toys, self-care products, home decor...literally everything!
The food is quite diverse and we take about an hour to stroll through the market during our first visit. I find some comforts from Kuala Lumpur and quickly place an abundance in the cart. We identify our favorite instant noodles and locate vegan jerky. We buy eggs in bulk, as well as the traditional Taiwanese bread buns. Lastly, I load up on fruits and vegetables. During one shopping trip, the market was running a special. Since we can't read the language, we didn't know what sales involve. At the checkout, we apparently triggered a free gift. We attempt to leave, but the cashier and all of the folks waiting in line insisted we remain for our gift. One other customer relays our lucky winnings in broken English, for which we are very appreciative. We wait a solid 5 minutes. A store employee returns with a bag of flavored gum. Everyone is smiling, so we oblige and say our "thank yous" before leaving. The people of Taipei are truly some of the kindest and friendliest, and they really wanted to make sure that we didn't miss out on the gift.
The Coiffeur (aka the Fleecing)
In Kuala Lumpur, I had found an amazing stylist who knew how to color and cut my hair and the products needed to manage it in the sweltering heat and humidity. The transition will be tough and D teases me about the constant "upkeep" my hair requires. But I'm just not ready to go gray, so root touch-ups are very necessary.
As I look around us, everything is in Mandarin Chinese. It's difficult to know if any of the local stylist know how to do "European hair." The photos in the windows are all Asian hair. Of course this makes total sense. The island of Taiwan is very homogeneous, and foreigners are not rare but are also not common. We see very few obvious westerns in our time here. I begin to wonder if I'll be able to find a stylist and start to come to terms with the fact that it may not happen. After all, we're only here for a month and I can immediately find a stylist when we arrive in our next destination.
Although I almost always straighten my hair, it's naturally curly - although with age it's looser than in my youth - and can be difficult in highly humid and warm climates. Here in Taipei, it's cool but with a lot of moisture in the air. As I dry it straight, it immediately frizzes the moment it meets the air. No local product can tame it, so I take to the internet to search for someone who can color and cut this mess.
I search and search. One name keeps coming up: a single name of a male stylist who had worked in Europe and knows how to manage European hair. I read the reviews. There's only one that's really bad so I take the leap. I send an email and schedule an appointment. The stylist only accepts cash, so I email him to ask how much it costs for a root touch-up. Red flag #1: The stylist replies by telling me that the prices are listed on his website. This is true, but there is no mention of root coloring. There are only hair coloring prices based on length. But I'm not having full color. In my gut, I just know that he is going to charge me based on the length of my hair (long), even though this pricing structure is unorthodox. Red flag #2: I receive a reminder that the salon is cash only. Taipei is a very advanced country with most transactions being done electronically. Withdrawing cash is no cost to us but I don't want extra because we don't need it for any other purpose. I withdraw $150 (USD) since I already have another $25. I figure that this will be more than enough since the fairly standard price for root color across the globe is $90 USD or less. Red flag #3: I arrived 5 minutes before the appointment. Nobody greets me for a few minutes. I am then ushered past the stylist who is servicing a client and seated in a chair. Nobody speaks to me. Literally, I sit next to the stylist and the other client without so much as an acknowledgement that I'm there. It's the strangest etiquette ever.
While I wait, I watch the stylist with his client through the mirror. She apparently asked for a very severe, short cut and color. The stylist talks her up: only she could pull this off, the style was made for her, it's meant to be a casual messy look. He assures her that she'll be able to style it on her own and look like she's just left the salon every day. And then he makes his move: the product pitch. And there it is. The style requires a lot of product, and product sale is a big score in the salon business. She gushes over his styling ingenuity and purchases every product he recommends. Red flag #4: The style is not realistic for a regular person and will be very difficult to maintain but he glosses over it as he animatedly styles and un-styles her hair multiple times. It's like I'm watching some weird magic show, and it starts to feel a bit like a con. And I'm stuck in a chair next to the window and far away from the exit. At this very moment, I know that I'm not leaving the salon with any NTD (Taiwanese New Dollar).
After about 20 minutes, the stylist quickly comes over to me. He introduces himself with a flashy smile and quick talk. I am able to say only a few words, but enough to share the root formula that I would like. The assistant appears to my left with a glass of water, and I'm handed off to her. She then disappears for 10 minutes or so. As she approaches me again, it is clear that she speaks no English. In an effort to communicate with me, she uses hand gestures to indicate what I'm supposed to do. I need to remove my very small loop earrings. Red flag #5: I've never, ever had to remove my earrings. And the whole point of the salon is to have the main stylist who speaks English. But, the color is applied quickly and efficiently applied. I sit for 45 minutes to let the color set.
My mind races as I sit in the chair. Now, I don't want a haircut. I just want the color removed and to leave. The whole atmosphere is uncomfortable. It's more of a feeling than anything else. Nobody is unkind. It's just the vibe. It's off. I typically follow my intuition but the need to get my hair done gets the better of me in this situation. Time's up. Color complete. I am ushered to the wash station. The assistant stylist spends almost 20 minutes rinsing my hair. It's an interesting ritual. I'm on high alert but nothing in the protocol aligns with any other service I've had anywhere in the world.
I return to the chair. The stylist comes to me. His speech is rapid but not pressured. I learn more about this man during the 7-minute cut (yes, and it is a markedly short time) than I know about people with whom I've worked for years. He tells me about his upbringing in Malaysia, his recent trip back, his desire to return, his marriage to his Taiwanese wife, his children, his affinity for hiking alone, and some other opinions about the world. He is friendly but I now know my instincts were all spot on.
The color is done. The cut is finished. All is fine: I'm not wow'd but I'm not disappointed. But next comes the payment. The stylist finds his way to the front desk and does some calculations. Sure enough, I am charged for root coverage based upon the length of my hair. It is the base cost for the longest length of hair plus a base cost for the longest cut despite the fact that it was less than 1/4 inch of hair trimmed. I'm seething as I see the amount. I just have enough TWD. I end up giving a $5 tip - more because I didn't want to request any change back. But it was literally all the money I had. This root color and trim cost me $175 USD. I've never paid so much for so little. I leave before he can even count the money.
I have no problem with businesses setting their own prices. I just don't believe the price was set in good faith. My first words to D upon arrival at the apartment, "I was fleeced." Nobody should leave a service feeling taken. Needless to say, I would never return nor recommend anyone to the salon. Fortunately, it is the only bad experience in Taipei. A small blemish to an otherwise incredible location!
(I've purposefully not named the salon but a simple search for English-speaking or European hair salon in Taipei will return with the name of a single male stylist. This is the salon I would avoid.)