Palermo, Sicily: A Journey That Felt Like Home

When we first arrived in Palermo, Sicily, I didn’t know what to expect beyond the romanticized imagery I’d conjured from books, movies, and wistful daydreams. Having never been before, but with southern Italian roots (albeit not Sicilian), the visit felt like a homecoming of sorts—a chance to connect with a culture that, while distinct, was profoundly familiar. What I discovered was a city that wrapped me in its chaotic charm, generous spirit, and undeniable beauty. Palermo is a place where every cliche about Italy—the warmth of its people, the stunning architecture, and the gelato—comes alive in the most delightful way.

The Arrival: A Bit of Drama, a Lot of Kindness

Our Sicilian adventure began with a train ride from the airport to Notarbartolo Station. It was all smooth sailing until D realized his bag had been left behind on the train. Cue the panic! But any stress was quickly tempered by the extraordinary kindness of the locals. The train manager at Notarbartolo and staff at Palermo Centrale went above and beyond to help us, and even the police stayed with us during the whole process, offering support. Unfortunately, the bag never turned up, but the experience gave us our first taste of Sicilian hospitality: people here are truly there for you, even when things go sideways.

Day One: Falling in Love with the Historic Center

Our first full day was spent exploring Palermo’s historic center and marina. To say the city is enchanting feels like an understatement. Magnificent buildings rise like stoic sentinels of history, their facades whispering stories of centuries past. The streets are walkable, the weather was perfection, and the people? Friendly as can be. There’s a certain magic in Palermo, a city where time slows down just enough to savor the beauty around you. It’s hard not to feel a sense of awe walking through a place so steeped in history.

Day Two: Rain, Groceries, and La Passeggiata

The second day began with a drizzle that gave us an excuse to embrace the slower side of Sicilian life. We strolled to the local grocery store, marveling at the fresh produce, artisanal cheeses, and bread that seemed plucked from a baker’s dream. By evening, the rain had cleared, and we joined the locals for la passeggiata (the evening stroll). Dusk painted the hills in soft pastels, and the highlight? A pistachio and Nutella gelato from Pasticceria Matranga Ettore for just 2.80€. Two generous scoops of heaven.

Day Three: Shopping Adventures and City Strolls

Day three was a mix of practicality and exploration. We stocked up on groceries—an impressive haul for under $100 (approximately €82)—and set off in search of gym clothes for D. Wandering Palermo’s streets, I noticed how commercial shops nestle seamlessly into the lower floors of historic buildings. Every corner seemed to offer a new discovery, from hidden cafes to vibrant markets. Things are getting off to a good start!

Daily Life: Parks, Workouts, and Simplicity

Our AirBnB was conveniently located near a park—a serene spot where we worked out and admired roses in full bloom. The city’s parks are lively and charming, with kids on school outings and locals enjoying the sunshine. Walking became a way of life as we averaged 6 to 13 miles daily, often exploring nooks and crannies of Palermo while casually apartment hunting. It’s a wonderful way to feel like you belong.

Grocery shopping was a breeze, with plenty of nearby stores offering everything we needed, from fresh bread to local cheeses. And then there was Studio MUD, where I continued pottery c0-working and found a creative gem in the heart of the city. Life here felt peaceful and uncomplicated.

Memorable Moments: Haircuts, Parks, and Pizza

One of the more delightful surprises was my visit to Urban CDB, a hair salon where Maria and Pietro worked their magic. Maria’s meticulous approach to color and Pietro’s cheerful banter made the experience memorable. The price? Shockingly affordable.

Then there was Parco della Favorita, a lush expanse where we encountered ducks, stunning hill views, and friendly locals who greeted us as if we’d always been part of their community. And let’s not forget Biga Genio e Farina on Via della Libertà, where we indulged in traditional thick-crust Italian pizza. Tourist area? Sure. Worth it? Absolutely.

Lisa, a Sicilian-Kiwi with a globe-trotting past, matter-of-fact sense of humor, and street-savvy New York-accented English, added a vibrant layer to my experience. She’s the kind of person who makes you feel like you’ve known her forever, whether you’re sharing pottery tips or swapping stories during a mid-afternoon stroll.

The Quirks of Sicilian Life

Of course, no adventure is without its quirks. Mailing a letter turned into a cultural lesson in bureaucracy. At DHL, I learned you can’t send a letter without a national ID, and the staff insisted on reviewing the contents. Privacy, it seems, is not a given. After much back-and-forth in broken Italian, I opted for the regular post office instead. Even there, mailing three postcards and a letter took nearly an hour—an experience equal parts amusing and exasperating.

The Last Day: Sweet Endings

After a month, our final day brought a mix of sprinkles and a train strike. Despite the chaos, we stumbled upon Coffee Corner, a cafe with incredible Nutella-pistachio pancakes. There was no internet, but the espresso was so good I didn’t mind. At the airport, I indulged in a miniature cannolo (that's the singular form of a cannoli), savoring the last sweet bite of Sicily before boarding our flight.

Reflections

Palermo is a city that stays with you. Its vibrancy, its warmth, its unapologetic authenticity—everything about it made me feel like I’d found a second home. Whether walking its historic streets, savoring gelato, or navigating its quirks, every moment felt like a story waiting to be told. Sicily, you’ve captured my heart, and I can’t wait to return.