An Introduction to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

The heat and humidity hits you immediately upon arrival. Despite the 10 hour flight from Istanbul, I'm alert and ready to explore this city. Immigration was a quick and easy process. I wasn't asked how long I planned to stay, but D was asked. When he responded, "Three months," he said said that the immigration officer looked equally surprised and proud.

We are avid users of public transportation, so we decide to take the train from the airport to Sentral. Sentral is a mammoth station with zero seating; just lots of open space. The heat from the street sweeps through the enormous building, filling the station's emptiness with heavy air. We walk through the metro and find the correct spot to catch the metro closest to the temporary AirBnB. As we get off the metro, I immediately notice that there are no walkable sidewalks. The sidewalks that do exist are in poor condition with major holes and cracks; we walk in the street with our bags in tow. Yes, the journey to the apartment is a spicy 15 minute walk through pot-holed streets. I am reminding myself that this is part of travel, so I push through the discomfort and heat.

In case it's unclear, Kuala Lumpur (KL) is humid. And hot. And sunny. And sometimes rainy. I've always loved heat and humidity...when we're talking about the Caribbean or Boston or Europe or Washington, DC in the summers. But, KL hits differently. It's real humidity. Persistent heat. And don't get it twisted - there's no relief at night.

Fortunately, even though Malaysia is a conservative Muslim country, Kuala Lumpur has very relaxed standards. Women from KL and Muslim countries dress modestly - even when swimming (e.g., full head dressing, long sleeves, long pants - all of which are not adapted swimwear; just regular clothes), but some locals and most western women freely wear typical bathing suits, shorts, and tank-tops or sleeveless tops. I often wore a tank top and yoga pants around the city. It's so busy and chaotic, nobody takes notice.

Everyday Life

Safety

Throughout our three months in KL, I feel very safe. Sure, there are ill-lit alleyways, sex workers on the streets, and likely some petty crime. But applying my American lens, there are no areas where we venture that set off the alarm bells. That doesn't mean that I'm not vigilant of my surroundings. When I set off in the city on my own - a solo outing to the gym, a little shopping expedition, a massage at a bougie hotel, and a Grab to my pottery class (just to name a few), I find no threats to my personal safety. And because the heat and humidity just barely subsides at night, we take some walks. Never once did we experience anything unsafe or shady.

KL has its share of street dwellers and sections of the city are strikingly untidy - I mean piles of rubbish and areas general disrepair. But KL is a city. And sometimes cities have issues. It doesn't mean that they're unsafe. With that said, there are ample signs in all the malls that warn of pickpockets and encourage vigilance with personal affects. Stay alert and take reasonable precautions for an uneventful stay.

The Malls

Malls are the center of life in KL. They are enormous and air conditioned. Some of the malls are connected with underground tunnels so that any outside exposure is eliminated. With the overbearing heat and humidity, the malls offer a retreat and a wide array of amusements for persons of all ages. In Berjaya Times Square, there is a huge bowling alley, archery range, and amusement park (complete with a rollercoaster, other rides, and games). And, the mall has mini-cars that children (and adults) can drive in the designated lanes. Yes, the malls are absolutely massive and full of entertainment.

One day after the gym, we decide to go bowling. Surprisingly, there were several other groupings of bowlers. The cost of three strings plus the shoe rentals was under $20 (USD). Even though I lose every string (by an embarrassing gap), it is so much fun. The alley is filled with lots of laughter, and the people watching is almost as entertaining as the bowling.

The Gym

We ease into every day life quite quickly. Even though both AirBnB buildlings had gyms (one far more superior than the other), we join a local gym. The gym, Boss Fit in the Berjaya Times Square building, is reasonably priced even though there are no day or monthly passes available. The 4-month pass averages to about $31/month. The mid-mornings are the best times since few people are there and equipment for strength and cardio is widely available. There is even a separate room for women's workouts. But the backroom is our primary location. It has the air-runners and air-bikes, so we can do CrossFit workouts. There are also rowers located in the open gym, which we use for alternative CrossFit workouts.

The locker rooms are large with endless storage lockers, hair dryers, showers, and toilets. There are even sauna and steam rooms located at the back after the shower stalls. The custodian is a friendly woman who speaks only Malay but we begin to share greetings and end up having a conversation about where I'm from and my heritage. Luckily, Indonesian and Malay are true sister languages, so I'm able to communicate in a very basic but competent way. She also teaches me some Malay, which I use to speak with her throughout the time there.

The Food

KL is a foodie haven. I'm not a foodie, nor is D but we are delighted with the access to fresh foods and super affordable restaurants. We grocery shop twice a week - mainly to get fresh eggs and water but also for vegetables and fruits. Noodles are the main staple in everyday meals, and we are fully stocked. Weekly grocery shopping is usually around $60 (USD). I cook a healthy breakfast daily and it always includes bananas and fresh oranges, which becomes of a staple of the day.

The low cost of food leaves money in the budget for dining out, which we do 1-2 times per week. The most expensive place Celadon Royal Thai Cuisine in the Pavilion Mall costs about $30 inclusive of meals and drinks (the sour sop frosty is to die for!), and we leave fully satiated. In fact, we have our Christmas dinner there and find the mall flooded with festivities. Our favorite spot is an Indian Restaurant called GEM in the Brickfields. And what a gem it is! The flavors and extensive selection of dishes is extraordinary. There is so much food that we often have leftovers. The total cost never exceeds $25 (USD). Our other favorite spot is an open-air restaurant tucked into a strip-mall type of building. It is called Kadai Mamak Husin and I swear that it has the world's best naan. I make friends with the expert naan baker - a seemingly harsh looking guy who is super nice - after he asks where I'm from. From there on, we get the fastest, biggest naan he can make. Four large garlic naan cost under $4 (USD). We either order noodles or buy instant noodles from the neighboring convenience store, and the entire meal is always less than $6 (USD). As an aside, instant noodles are typically $1 (USD) a real cultural experience. If you know, you know. 🍜

To drive the point, we eat well in KL but it also feels healthy except the occasional trip to Five Guys. (We had never been in the states and D likes a burger from time to time as we slowly depart from our strict vegan to vegetarian to occasional red meat lifestyle.) And BTW: KL is perfect for vegans and vegetarians, as well as meat consumers.

Transportation

The transportation is solid. The train from the airport to Sentral is very straightforward and affordable. We purchase our tickets at the kiosk before the train gates, and then take the 45-minute train ride to the city center. We find the metro that will take us closest to first AirBnB without a problem. Signs around KL are in Malay and English, so there is no problem with navigating. Throughout the stay we find the metro is an easy way to travel in the evenings, and we even take the commuter rail to the Batu Caves (next blog story). When the metro is unavailable for specific locations, GRAB (the UBER equivalent) is an economical and safe alternative. I use GRAB to get to a pottery class, to deliver take-out from GEM, and to return to the airport (our flight to Taipei was quite earlier and the metro wasn't an option). To give some context, we stay in agurably the nicest location in KL - Ceylon Hill. The GRAB from Ceylon Hill to the airport is just over an hour and costs us $23 (USD) with tip included. Where else in the world would you pay this price for an hour airport transport?!

The metro is easy and takes us to most of the places we want to explore. Despite information on the website, the ticket machines don't work in any station, so all transactions happen at the person-managed booths. We purchase a metro card, which is valid until 2031. It is quite affordable but shorter-term tourists who do not frequently use the metro can also purchase single journey tokens. The token is literally a bingo chip (blue if I recall correctly from our one and only experience with it) that is inserted into the turnstile for entrance to the metro.

The platforms are sometimes crowded but when we're lucky, we get to stand below a fan while waiting for the train to arrive. Once on the metro, every car is air conditioned, so the rides are comfortable. Seats are a premium on some journeys, so be prepared to stand during busier times or on more popular lines. Metro cars are clean and well managed. There are screens announcing upcoming stops and, generally, people are respectful entering and exiting (e.g., minimal pushing). There is one delay we experience when taking the monorail from Sentral back to Ceylon Hill. Because of the delay and late evening hour, there are an absurd amount of people who now anxiously await. Needless to say, the pushing and racing to seats is a comedic scene. Mostly because anyone elderly, with a child, or who looks at someone with a disappointed look can get the person to move from their highly coveted seat. Malaysia is a culture of respect and a mere look of dissatisfaction from an

Walking is an option but the sidewalks aren't always reliable and the heat and humidity is a slight deterrent. Regardless, we walk quite a bit because, well, we like to walk. Everyday we walk to the gym, every few days we walk to the grocery and back (although GRAB offers delivery services), almost every day we walk to the convenience store for water, and we generally explore the city on foot because it's always the best way to intimately understand the vibe and pulse of a place. With that said, we're not shy to duck into a mall to get some air conditioning when needed.

The Doctor & Dentist

We follow a YouTuber that knows KL very well and raves about the medical and dental care. We decide that, in this location, we'll get our annual physicals and dental appointments out of the way. After all, we're living "real life." And this is a really real thing to do. BTW: I am petrified of both.

Near our first AirBnB, a new dental clinic, Hello Dental, has just opened. We continuously walk by and think about scheduling an appointment. This has been on our agenda prior to arriving in KL so I know it's gonna happen. Randomly, we meet an Aussie-Brit who just went to the clinic. His mouth is a bit of a mess, and he is gushing about his experience especially since he knows that his teeth are jacked up. He tells us that he had a full treatment plus an additional appointment with a specialist all for under $75 (USD). We are convinced; this isn't even a fraction of the insurance costs in the US. Within the week, we walk into the clinic and request appointments, which are scheduled for three days later. Can you imagine getting a dental appointment in the US in three days? Great, I think. And then the anxiety sets in. I hate the dentist...really anything medical. The only reason my teeth are as beautiful as they are is because my father was my dentist prior to his retirement, and he is the best! But I digress...

We arrive for our appointments and I'm up first. I opt for the painless experience - laser dentistry. It costs slightly more but I'm assured that there's not scraping or poking with a sharp tool. Truth be told, the experience was 99% painless. And I got fillers for where my teeth were worn from brushing. The dentist is young and has a dry personality but is very skilled. Overall, an impersonal but good experience.

We had already booked our well-visits on line at Prince Court Medical Centre but they were scheduled for after our dental visits. It's really easy and appointments can be scheduled as early as a month out. (Again, imagine that!) As soon as we book our appointments, we receive a confirmation and a few days later a subsequent email confirming the visits. Upon arrival, we are given forms to complete and the receptionists ask for identification and releases of information, which are standard to the process. I am anxious as can be. Like blood pumping ferociously through my body. Did I mention that I hate going to the doctor? Long story short, all is well - both with the process and with me. 😅

The whole process is more like a medical factory, but super efficient and thorough. The physical is beyond the typical appointment in the US. In addition to all the expected poking and prodding, they also do sight and hearing exams (e.g., in an actual sound booth), bone density tests (to assess bone fragility), stress tests (to assess heart fitness), abdominal ultrasound (to assess for any abnormal growths on any organs for men and women), and mammograms (for women). Since the building is equipped as a medical centre, I simply travel to different departments instead of having to schedule separate medical appointment. Absolutely genius! The pro of it is everything is done and I receive all the results the same day. The con is that the day is about 7 hours, so it is a full, tiring day. Overall, it is a good experience and one I am happy to have out of the way. The costs of the medical appointments are online and transparent. No additional or hidden costs and so affordable!

What was I afraid of? I'm so foolish. As Seneca says, the monsters in your head are always worse than reality.

Accommodations

KL is an affordable city. It's important to find a building with a good pool. Pools are essential to make life in KL pleasant. KL is a budding metropolis. I've heard people refer to it as "the poor person's Singapore." It's true. A few years ago, we stayed in Singapore for a week and a basic studio hotel room cost as much as one month in a high-end 2-bedroom apartment in KL for a month.

After two weeks in the first AirBnB, which was adequate but basic, we upgraded to an apartment in the Pavilion Ceylon Hill building. After experiencing a less than satisfactory interaction with the building-managed Booking.com/AirBnB unit, we switch to a private AirBnB. Each month costs $1200 (USD) for a spacious two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment with living, dining, and full kitchen (less an oven). Can you imagine being in a world city, best location with about 120 m2 and pay that little?! It figuratively still blows my mind when I think about it. And, the amenities of the building are incredible with roof-top and mid-level level pools and generously sized jacuzzis. (The private AirBnB owner has raised the price after accumulating only 5 star reviews; otherwise, I'd link the apartment. But there are still plenty of apartments at bargain prices in this building and other high-end buildings throughout the city.)

There is full-time security at all residential buildings in KL. They are professional and friendly, and every time we leave or arrive D gets a salute and I get a smile and head nod.

We decide that KL would be an appropriate world city to have a home. So I contact a realtor and we begin looking at apartments. The realty game is a bit different than the US. (It really could use the magic of my brother-in-law who is a brilliant realtor and negotiator.) There are not MLS listings and everything moves slowly. The prices are negotiable but we believe that many of the owners are fantastical in their thinking with some of the asking prices. We find a few places that we like and don't feel rushed to move on it because, yeah, everything moves slowly. Besides, there is a building boom in KL. Properties don't appreciate in value because new buildings are going up every day...literally. All you need to do is look at the skyline and see the endless cranes on the horizon. And there is so much inventory that it's difficult to look through it all. But we will persist.

Affordability & Basic Necessities

The grocery stores typically carry all of the basic personal care necessities including feminine hygiene products. But there's also a store called Watsons where I prefer to buy soap, shampoo, and lotion.

To give reference to the costs, here are some of the prices:
1. Dove liquid soap (large): $3 (USD)
2. Nivea body lotion (standard): $4 (USD)
3. Pantene shampoo and conditioner: $6 (USD)
4. Q-Tips: 400 count, less than $1 (USD)
5. Face wash (generic): less than $2 (USD)
6. Toilet paper: 6 pack of double-ply, $2 (USD)
7. Paper towers: 2 pack, high absorbency, $1 (USD)
8. Sanitary products: packs between $2-$5 (USD)

Misc.

Since we travel full-time, it's important to remember that we're not on vacation. We're living life like someone who lives in their "normal home" would live. We just happen to move a lot. So I am always on the hunt for a three main things:

Hair: Fortunately, I find the perfect stylist in KL. Her name is Gwenn and she is very talented and personable. I always get nervous because my stylist in Charlotte, NC is the absolute best! (I can also share her information if anyone is looking for any amazing stylist who does any texture of hair in Charlotte.) During the first appointment, I have my highlights extended and roots covered. Subsequent appointments, it's roots and cut only. Although all of my appointments are at a well-known salon, Gwenn subsequently left (otherwise I'd link the salon). But if you're looking for a stylist who knows how to do European hair in KL, message me and I'll share Gwenn's contact info.

Pottery Classes: During the hand-building workshop in Porto, Portugal, I was bitten by the pottery bug. I'm obsessed. Literally obsessed. If there is a YouTube video about pottery, I've watched it. So, I look to extend my practice to wheel-throwing. I find a three-hour workshop in KL and take a GRAB to the location. I'm the only student that day. Unfortunately, the instruction isn't so great and is distracted by some women who come to the shop for supplies. As I'm instructed to close my eyes and feel the clay, I'm unable to relax because I don't remember any of the basics of throwing from an eight-week course I took over 20 years ago. I try to breathe into the clay and guide the clay but my technique is junk. On the other hand, the instructor skillfully builds multiple vessels while somewhat encouraging me along in the process. I finally get a cup done. It's janky, but it's a cup. He asks if I want to fire it; I agree and pay the additional fee. Only two months later (after I had left KL) do I receive a notice that it's ready for pick up. 🤦🏽‍♀️ While this potter is highly experienced, skilled, and incredibly artistic; he's just not a great teacher. (Spoiler alert: I persist in my practice and end up going to an incredible studio in the next stop.)

Massage: Southeast Asia is well-known for its massage culture. (Both the legit and illegitimate type.) In my search for a spa day retreat at a reputable place, I stumble across the Banyan Tree Luxury Spa in the hotel of the same name and decide to schedule a package that includes a traditional Indonesian massage. The experience is amazing and very relaxing. The management is very professional and the location is quite luxurious. Fortunately, I didn't have to be a guest at the hotel and I still received a huge discount. For a three-hour spa experience, it cost under $200 (USD).

In general, KL is a great place for resetting and living a "normal" life. There aren't the distractions of tourist sights, but it has all the conveniences of citylife...if you can stand the heat.