Dali to Fulong

Hiking is a staple of our travels. It's one of the best ways to get to know a country - or at least a specific part of the country. As we endeavor to hike our way from Dali to Fulong, we first have to find our way out of Taipei.

We wake up early and walk to the metro to go to the main train station. Once at the main depot, we find the correct train line for Dali, purchase our tickets ($4 for the two of us +/-), and wait on the platform. We think we found the correct line. We think this because it's the one place where none of the lines are in English - everything is in Mandarin Chinese. But I try to align the schedule with the times that are flashing on the board. After a mere 5 minutes, the train arrives and we jump on. It just as quickly leaves. Something seems off. Through charades, showing our ticket, and some broken English, we ask a train rider if we're on the right train. And...that would be a definitive "no." In fact, we're on an express train to a place we're not intending to go.

Averting disaster, we get off the train at the next stop. Fortunately, nobody has asked to see our tickets and the train stop is actually en route to Dali. So, we wait. The train arrives in about 40 minutes. It's not a fatal flaw but costs us precious time. It's also a great reminder how navigating in locations with English translations can be really, really challenging. (I have a quick flashback to Seoul, South Korea where it took us 1 hour to take the regular metro into the city center because we couldn't read the Korean characters.) This time we've got it. We are assured by the location train guard that this is, in fact, the train to Dali.

It's a local train and quite crowded. We stand for about 10 minutes but desperately look for seats as our journey is a bit over an hour. The crowd on the train eases and we find two random seats, and after about another 10 minutes I am able to sit next to D.

The train ride is pleasant and traverses through increasingly remote terrain. It's lush greenery is equally as beautiful as when we start to travel next to the Pacific Ocean. We're getting closer, and the idea of hiking so far away from the city is overwhelmingly exciting. A little quiet, nature, and truly fresh air is such a treat!

We arrive and the views from the train station are beautiful. The Pacific Ocean is blue and calm, and the clouds are quickly creating a mist across the water.

The hike is full of surprises. We pass lone ornate temples and orchids affixed to trees.

As we climb farther and farther up, we take note of different signs warning us of the dangers of the trail. The trail is seemingly easy and we note no specific dangers but heed the warnings.

It doesn't take long until we come to the ascent. There are a few options: stairs or switchbacks. We mostly take the stairs but do a few of the switchbacks to offer some relief to the perpetual climb. It is by no means difficult and everything is well marked. The trail is well-maintained and the hike - even upwards - feels pleasant and exciting. We reach the point, where instead of continuing upwards, we head to Fulong. The overlook is spectacular and the ocean is foggy and mysterious.

There are all sorts of surprises on the trail. At times, we walk through the woods. Other times, we traversing a rice paddy. We cross man-laid stone bridges and open pastures and fields. An occasional dog accompany a farmer comes to greet us along the way, and we wave to the construction crew who are fixing a derelict road that appears to be infrequently used but dangerous without repair.

The arrival to Fulong is somewhat anti-climatic because it requires that we cross a very busy road. It slightly ruins the magic of the hike but the view of the pristine water makes up for it.

We remain at the ocean for a short time. There are only a handful of trains that head back to Taipei and we don't want to miss it. As we re-cross the busy stroad, we feel fulfilled by our experience and look forward to more adventures in Taiwan.