Sweating It Out in Kuala Lumpur

Chinatown and Central Markets

When we first arrive in Kuala Lumpur, we are in very close proximity to Chinatown and the Central Market. Jalan Petaling (Petaling Street) is an open-air market in the heart of Chinatown where visitors and locals alike negotiate the costs of food, goods, and services. Yes, here you can find a little something for everyone - traditional fried foods and exotic fruits are displayed as we walk through the narrow alley. Stalls filled with knock-off sneakers, bags, and sunglasses crowd the parameters, as vendors yell to passers-by to solicit sales. Massage workers fan themselves with laminated menus as casually ask about interest in a foot or full-body massage. The prices can't be beat. For a 30-minute foot message, it's less than $10 USD, and a full-body massage is less than $15. Massages are available everywhere in Kuala Lumpur, but choose wisely less you fall into a massage dungeon.

We take our time to snake through the alleys, and I purchase some postcards and snap some shots. The Central Market is just mere steps from Chinatown, and it's more traditional in its step up with shops in storefronts with air conditioning and fixed prices - or so it seems. The beautiful thing about Kuala Lumpur is its character. The population is teeming with people of Chinese, Indian, and - of course - native Malay backgrounds. It feels harmonious and the fusion of cultures adds to the vibrancy of colors, sounds, smells, and tastes throughout the city. It's hard not to feel welcomed here.

Lunar and Chinese New Year

When we decided to visit Kuala Lumpur, our plan was not to intentionally go for the celebrations of the new years. It just so happened that we are present for the global New Year, as well as the Lunar or Chinese New Year. In Kuala Lumpur, the fireworks were canceled two days ahead of 31 December citing the war on the Palestinian people. Malaysia is, in fact, a conservative Muslim country but news reports suggest that budget and planning were the precipitants to the foiled celebration. All around the city, however, individuals set off massive displays of fireworks. The festivities continued throughout the month and until the Chinese New Year arrived. (In KL, the Lunar New Year was not referenced due to the overwhelming and influential Chinese population.)

In preparation for the Chinese New Year, we visit Petaling Jaya, a city close to Kuala Lumpur. It's not a very walkable city but we find our way on foot to PJ's Chinatown. There, we find a run-down, crowded neighborhood littered with restaurants and shops all outfitted with red lanterns and sashes to welcome the new year with prosperity and positivity. We stop in a local shop to look for Malaysia country stickers. (We collect flag stickers to each country we visit, whenever possible.) The store is packed with stuff. Anything and everything. Just stuff everywhere - floor to ceiling. The aisles are so narrow that only one person can fit at a time. We quickly find some really awesome and cheap travel games - chess, uno, and a deck of cards. Since it's the year of the dragon and we were both born in the year of the dragon (although in different calendar years - interesting, eh?), I grab a talisman with a golden dragon and red threads. I think it's supposed to hand from a car mirror, but I leave it in my bag to bring good luck.

At the check out counter, I ask the guy if he has any Malaysia stickers. He knows exactly where they are - a true miracle. We get two roles of stickers because he doesn't sell them individually. The grand total for all our finds was under $3 USD. From there, we embark in a 30 minute conversation with the store owner and his elderly relative who speaks remarkable English. We are peppered with questions about Chinatowns in the US, our impressions of PJ's Chinatown, the type of Chinese foods we like, and how long we plan to remain in Malaysia. The conversation could have continued on, but customers started to come into the shop and we decided to move along.

All Good Things Come to an End

Kuala Lumpur is a beautiful city. For those who can sweat it out and know how to move in the heat and humidity, it's a dynamic and incredibly affordable city. Everywhere we look, there are cranes in the sky building more and more housing and malls as the city expands and competes with its neighbor, Singapore.

KL feels like a place that could provide a good quality of life and we discuss our plans to return, even before we leave.