Braga-docious

A leisurely start to the day begins with a delightful walk to the beautifully tiled, wildly popular Sāo Bento train station. "Olá. Bom dia. Dois bilhetes para Braga, por favor," I say to the man at the ticket desk. The phrase is the full range of my Portuguese mais ou menos (more or less) and only because it's so close to Spanish. The gentleman asks in Portuguese if I'd like one-way or a return ticket. I'm relieved that I understand, but panic because I don't know how to respond. I downshift into Spanish, "Ida y vuelta, por favor." A slight furrowing of his brow and I realize I've done it again. Do. Not. Speak. Spanish. In. Portugal. 🇵🇹 My response is actually not far off from the Portuguese, which is ida e volta, but the variation is distinct. And the unspoken rule is not to speak Spanish. Ever. Try as I may, but Spanish creeps into my everyday conversations without premeditation or malice. The Portuguese are not shy to assert their distain. Speak English. Falter with Portuguese. But never Spanish. Regardless, the transaction for the two round-trip tickets is successful and now we wait.

The Sāo Bento train station is an attraction all to itself. Faded blue scenes are punctuated by grout lines framing the quadrants of each tile, big and small. The more vivid blue-tiled scenes decorate elaborate arches and inner windows. Imagine the pure talent and labor involved to handcraft such works of art! It charms visitors of all backgrounds, including me. While some are at the station en route to their next destination, many have arrived to strain their necks and satisfy their eyeballs in full appreciation of the range of artistic beauty surrounding them.

In addition to its beauty, Sāo Bento is actually a train station. So we wait to catch "the local" to Braga and enjoy the people watching in the meantime. To take the train to Braga - which totaled 14.50€ for two roundtrip tickets - there are no assigned seats. It's really just a long-distance metro with ticket validation 15 minutes or less before the train is scheduled to depart. (The ticket validation machines are at the entrance to each "train lane." Be sure to validate or risk a fine!)

We arrive in Braga about an hour after leaving Porto. The ride is pleasant and varying in its picturesque-ness. All passengers leave the train leaving the platforms overcrowded and humming with noise. Just as quickly, everyone disperses and the station is nearly empty. We saunter out the side door and stumble upon an unremarkable sign noting it's the Braga station (below).

The historic district is close to the station. Mind you, we're walkers so any reasonable distance feels close, but it is a mile (mais ou menos) from the station. The weather is quite pleasant, and I enjoy the leisurely stroll. To our right, I see a vast wall appearing to have been built as a fortifying structure. Okay, so I'm not one of those people who is like, "This is such cool architecture." I know absolutely nothing of about building design or style and less about the historical periods often contrasting one type of building from another, but I am someone who appreciates art. To me, buildings are just a different medium for a creative mind to express itself. How can you not admire it? So I slowly drift from the right side of the road to the left, cross the street, and wander into the well-manicured courtyard.

The gate to the old town in surrounded by guided tours, shops, and restaurants making it difficult to capture a good shot. But patience is a virtue. I'll wait a good amount of time for a photo...and, fortunately, Deezy is uncomplaining. (He's accepted it as a core part of our travel experience. It's one of his many wonderful qualities!)

On the other side of the impressive stone structure are historical churches and quintessential Portuguese buildings covered in ornate tiles and in various states of decay. As we quickly learn, Porto does not have the monopoly on charming, abandoned homes and buildings.

Beyond the tourist spots are some beautiful homes and buildings, and I cannot help but peruse the streets and snaps shots of random things.

In the distance we see Bom Jesus do Monte (Good Jesus of the Mount). The white, baroque staircase leading to the church is so distinct and immense that it can be clearly seen from several miles away. I had casually researched Braga and saw this amazing church with no set intention to visit. I know, shocking to learn about an old church in Europe, but hear me out: This church is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the church itself is only a very small part of the reason this place is so enchanting. After seeing it in the distance, I vacillate for no more than 15 seconds and definitively decide that we must visit. Deezy jumps online and finds the most direct way to get there: The no. 2 bus. We have a collection of Euro change, but the cost for city bus rides is not clearly advertised online. Anticipating the cost, I count out 4€ and then we wait. And wait. And wait a little more. We end up waiting at the bus stop for over 30 minutes, and a woman waiting, too, asks me if I know when it's coming. She debates taking an Uber and then the bus magically appears. It's a fixed 1.55€ (as of August 2023) per person to ride to Bom Jesus do Monte each way.

Upon arrival, we decide that we will not take the tram that circumvents the Stations of the Cross and baroque staircase - we want the full experience. As we scale the delightful steps, we pass along a tree-lined, stone-paved path. The trail snakes towards the church and at each "intersection" we find a fountain and Station of the Cross complete with elaborate statues within the small houses. Deezy can't help himself and makes sure to cool down by watering himself at every station - he doesn't miss one throughout the expansive grounds.

Climbing the stairs to the church is anything but a chore. There are fountains and statues guiding walkers along the way, and each twist and turn feels magical and is full of anticipation as the church grows closer. At the top, there is a full wedding party and guests excitedly await the arrival of the bride. Tourists elbow their way into the church despite the impending nuptials. Given that the bride has yet to arrive, we quickly dip into the church, find it is - indeed - a typical Catholic Church, and bow out.

To the left of the church, I spy a set of stairs. We climb yet again. The grounds are never-ending and we quickly find ourselves at a miniature pond where visitors are rowing canoes in an epically tight circle. What pageantry and pomp to witness! The pure ridiculousness of the vision before us causes an uncontrollable, outward laugh. The remainder of the grounds are peaceful, and we edge our way to the remaining Stations of the Cross.

The trip to Braga was a wild success, and never did I expect to be enchanted by a European church as much as Bom Jesus do Monte. At one point, Deezy turned to me and said, "This is better than the Vactican!" (Now mind you, neither of us is religious but we are deeply appreciative of the art, mysticism, and beauty that religion offers.) Indeed, the natural beauty enhanced by the intricately designed grounds are surprisingly enchanting and well worth the 3.10€ roundtrip bus ride. Brag on, Braga!