A Day on the Prince Islands: Hiking, Beaches, and Burgers

If you're ever in Istanbul and find yourself craving a break from the hustle and bustle of the city–Europe or Asia side, the Prince Islands or Adalar are an absolute must-visit. With a ferry ride that costs a mere $2 each way (yes, you read that right), it’s a total steal. The journey takes about an hour and a half each way, but that’s plenty of time to relax as the ferry glides smoothly across the water, with the breeze and the sun glistening off the sea—a perfect prelude to the charming island life that awaits.

The first time we went, we started our day on the big island (known as Büyükada), arriving around 10:30 AM. The streets were calm, and the island had a peaceful vibe that’s hard to find in the heart of Istanbul. We wandered around, admiring the traditional wooden mansions lining the shoreline, which seemed to belong to a different era, alongside mega-houses that might just have been designed to show off how much wealth one could amass while still pretending to be quaint. The streets were lined with blossoming trees, and the only vehicles on the island were electric cars, golf carts, and bikes. Every so often, a gas-powered vehicle would zip by—usually a government-issued truck for garbage or utilities, which added a touch of authenticity to the otherwise serene scene.

We decided to check out the public beach and pay for access—400 lira (about $12) per person—for a pair of umbrellas and chairs. The beach was quiet, and the water was the perfect temperature for a dip. Now, I’ll warn you, it’s a rocky shore, not sand, so pack your water shoes if you want to protect your feet from the rocky bottom. But there are sandbars in the water, which makes for a fun, wade-able experience. After a few hours soaking up the sun and swimming, we strolled back into town, caught the ferry back to Kadıköy, and wrapped up the day with a meal from our favorite burger spot: Zapata Burger. If you’re ever in the area, trust me, it’s worth it.

But that was just the beginning.

Hiking Adventures and Church Views on Adalar (The Prince Islands)

On August 27, we decided to return to Adalar to hike the big island, which felt more like a secret haven for those in the know. I had taken meticulous notes on the ferry stops (because, as you may have guessed, I document everything with photos and film), so I convinced D to trust my memory instead of getting off a stop too early. After all, who needs GPS when you have a photographic memory, right? (Yes, I was right!) We disembarked, ready for the day’s adventure, which began with a steep climb to an Orthodox Greek church, Aya Yorgi Kilisesi, perched on a hill.

Now, when I say “hill,” I’m talking about a climb that felt like it might just go on forever. It was that kind of hike—the kind that gets steeper the longer you go. But once we arrived after a non-stop 15-minute walk, it was absolutely worth the effort. (Note: Lots of folks stopped along the way because of the steep incline. We carried on.) The church was stunning, with artwork inside that had to be seen to be believed. No photos were allowed, but trust me, the intricate paintings surrounded by silver and tin sculptures—like a horse encircling a portrait, or a halo above Mary’s head—were breathtaking. The wooden chairs, each with armrests like oversized highchairs, gave the whole place a unique, almost cozy feel despite its modest grandeur. And the priest’s pulpit? Let’s just say it had more of an elevated perspective than I’m used to.

After leaving the church, we continued our hike around the island, making our way toward a lighthouse that was visible from the top of the hill. From there, we descended to the beach where we spent the next four hours in pure relaxation. The water was inviting, and we took turns diving in to cool off, returning to our towels when the heat became too much.

A Falafel Oasis

Our hiking journey left us parched, so we made our way back to Kadıköy and stopped at our favorite falafel joint, NOHUT. If you’re a fan of falafel (and who isn’t?), this place is an absolute gem. The owner was a delight (as always), greeting us with a handshake and serving up some refreshing tea. At that point, after a long, hot day of hiking and exploring, I was more than grateful for the hydration. We downed the tea, devoured the falafel, and called it a day.

The Prince Islands were truly a highlight of our time in Istanbul—a perfect mix of relaxation, exploration, and the occasional burger or falafel fix. Whether you’re into hiking, beach days, or just wandering around, there’s something undeniably magical about these islands. Go ahead, take the ferry ride. Your $2 ticket will open the door to an unforgettable day.